Vintage Airstream

Price vs. Condition

Content Admin — Sun, 10 Jun 2012 00:59:56 +0000

Vintage Airstream Values

The question that always get asked by newcomers and existing owners alike is, what is an older Airstream worth? There is no “Bluebook” for older trailers, and the N.A.D.A. Guide stops at 20 years. The premise is that beyond that point, the trailer is fully depreciated and any value left is intrinsic. Such value is very subjective, and can vary by current economic conditions, the geographical region and the desire of the seller and buyer. What I hope to impart here is an awareness of the thought process behind how to arrive at a fair price between a willing seller and buyer. This way of arriving at a price is based on the Market Value (“comp” value) method of appraisal. In our case, we take the determined value of the trailer in a set condition (benchmark value), and then subtract the costs necessary to make the trailer under appraisal equal to that trailer benchmark.

The idea is simple, but it requires time becoming familiar with values and costs.

Determining Price	Table A - Definition of Condition	Table B - Price Guide
Table C - Cost of Repairs	Table D - Originality	Airstream Price Trends

Step 1: Determine the benchmark price

To determine this benchmark value, watch the airstream.net, RV-Traderonline.com, ebaymotors.com, airstreamforums.com and airstreamcentral.com ads. Vintage trailers roughly fall into 3 categories: restored, average, & “as found” (see Table A). This is where it becomes important to not jump at the first Airstream you come across, waiting until you are familiar with what’s available out there. For the impatient, I’ve prepared a rough”guide” of Airstream prices (Table B). Couple words of caution:
Just because a price is listed in an ad doesn’t mean it sold for that price. I usually discount prices by 15% (for buyer counter offers) and don’t use obviously absurd prices. Prices will always be higher on ebay because you have greater exposure to a vast number of potential buyers with little effort required by both parties to initiate interest.
It is also human nature for people to understate what they bought something for, and to overstate what they sold something for. Take this into account when talking to folks about what a trailer sold for. Also, ebay prices can fool you. 1 in 5 sales fall through because the buyer backs out when they see the trailer, or never follows through. You have to watch for relists and feedback.

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Test Case Example: What is the value of 1961 24′ Tradewind, routinely used each season, but with deferred items needing repair, and determined to be just worse than Average condition. Per our Table B below, the benchmark for an average condition 1960′s Tradewind is $5500. If your fine-tuned research has shown “that a 1961 Tradewind sells for more than a 1968 Tradewind on the West Coast in the middle of winter”, then use your value here.

Step 2: Apples to Apples……..

If you were looking at a fully “restored”, “average” or “as found” trailer for sale, your homework is done – you’ve solved the “what is it worth” equation. But what if the trailer is somewhere in between, as is the usual case? This is the second step, subtracting the cost of anticipated repairs from the benchmark value. Once again, in order to keep from paying too much, you have to do some research. How much does it cost to have something repaired, replaced or overhauled? I’ve provided a table of shortcuts (Table C), but for those items where a price is not listed, multiply what you would expect the repair to take by the shop labor rate and then estimate parts and materials. Study the links to suppliers and become familiar with parts costs. The key is to assign a value to items that will need to be repaired – it will all average out. This is also the time where it pays to inspect the trailer from front to back, or to have had it inspected by a mechanic or Airstream knowledgeable person. Not only should obvious items be looked at, but also the originality and finish should be scrutinized. It is amazing how fast restoration and repair costs can add up, even on items that appear to be OK at first glance- after all, you are dealing with items that are 25 to 55 years old.

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This is where we now take our Tradewind example and adjust it for its shortcomings. Lets say it has a soft floor near the door, someone has installed a cheap plastic RV toilet, the cabinets have some water damage, the LP tanks are not current OPD, the trailer lights don’t work and the front skylight is a piece of plywood. Using the Table C, the total anticipated equalizing cost comes to $2200 in our example.

Step 3: Simple subtraction

Take the total equalizing fix-it cost from Step 2 above and subtract it from your benchmark value from Step 1. If you are in your right mind, this should be the price to pay for the trailer under scrutiny. But….it is very possible that you can end up with a price far below the asking price, or even a negative number! I call this the Airstream price/condition axiom. “The more perfect condition a trailer is in, with minimal deferred repairs and damage – the better the deal.” You will always come out money ahead by paying more up front and getting a well maintained Airstream in as good as condition as possible.

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Using our Tradewind example, we subtract the adjustment estimate of $2200 from the benchmark value of $5500, arriving at a fair market value price of $3200. This is a realistic price for a ’60′s-early ’70′s Tradewind in just less than average condition.

Step 4: Labor of Love

What if your net adjusted price is less than, maybe even much less than the asking price? You have three options.

Make a reasonable offer, or
Run the other direction – there are plenty of Airstreams out there, or
Evaluate the acquisition based on what price you place on convenience and how it meets the needs of what drove you to want a vintage Airstream in the first place. This could be such things as the interior condition not being important because you plan to build your own custom interior, to the other extreme of the importance of a completely original but poor condition interior. Also, what if you are able to do most of the work yourself, paying only for materials and parts? Here is where the therapeutic factor and satisfaction of restoration and rescue come into play. If you are able to adjust the repair costs in Step 2 downward by excluding labor, then doing so will result in some of the less fortunate trailers moving back into the positive region; it then becomes a “labor of love”, instead of making economic sense.

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Using our Tradewind example again, let’s say the seller was asking $3500; you talk them down to $3200, leaving a spread of $700. The questions come down to:

Is this exactly what I’ve been looking for?

Have I looked at many Airstreams now, or is the first one that came along? Too many times buyers will buy the first trailer they come across, ignoring common sense and economics.

Do I have the talent and time to realistically do some, if not all of the labor?

These types of questions will or will not justify the difference between a sensible buy and the price of convenience.

A note about “For Sale” ad prices

The above exercise brings up the question, how did those sellers arrive at their price in the first place?

Sellers probably determined their asking price by doing the same thing you should be doing, studying what other trailers are listed for, and then setting their price higher or lower based on economic need and how they feel their trailer stacks up to other examples.
This is also where you can pick up “deals” – unwitting sellers setting low asking prices unaware of current market values.

Caution: if you see a trailer get relisted in ads, that is a good indication that the seller did not get their asking price the first time, and that first sale price should be not be counted.

Table A – Condition

“Average” Condition

The definition of “average condition” is:

The shell should have no more than one or two very small shallow dents, and no punctures or scrapes.
It is most likely not polished, and if the clearcoat is still on it, it may be peeling in locations.
All of the original exterior vents and doors will be present, and the windows should not be broken and should have working openers and close securely.
The interior furnishings (cabinets, fixtures, appliances & linings) should be 90% or more original and all in good condition.
The soft goods (curtains, mattresses & upholstery) may be worn originals to just recently replaced. This is the one area that makes no difference to value, since most everyone will replace these during a restoration to suit.
All the original appliances such as heater, water heater, A/C and refrigerator work. If replaced, they should be of appropriate size and design.
The electrical, LPG and water systems should all be fully functional.
The tires, including the spare, aren’t cracked from UV damage, and the brakes are in good working order. The owner should have invoices showing fairly recent shock absorber replacement and wheel bearing repacking.
External features such as utility connections and servicing ports are fully functional.
The sub-floor shall be solid throughout with no soft spots. It should have the original or replacement floor covering in good unstained condition.
Outdated items such as hydraulic brakes and split rim wheels may or may not have been replaced.
The trailer has seen regular annual use and care.

These are also the types of questions you can ask a seller to determine the condition of a trailer.

“As Found” Condition

The definition of an “as found” is a trailer having some of the following:

Larger or numerous dents, punctures or scrapes.
Missing some of the exterior vents, doors or windows.
Interior furnishings and features less than 75% original, or are water damaged.
Some of the original appliances such as furnace, water heater, stove and refrigerator are missing.
The electrical, LPG and water systems aren’t functional.
The tires, including the spare, are cracked from UV damage, and the condition of the axle components are unknown
External features such as utility connections and servicing ports are damaged or missing.
The subfloor has soft spots or rot damage.
The cabinetry or interior walls have been painted over in other than original finishes.
The trailer hasn’t been used or maintained in many years.
Modifications may have been done to the layout or systems.

Most of the trailers that end up for sale fall into this category.

“Restored” Condition

The Restored term is often misused (see “Renovated” condition below). Most Airstreams are in a state of “undergoing renovation or restoration”. Truly Restored means:

Interior

The interior layout is original, or is typical of the period and Airstream design (no computer desk instead of sofas, no wet bars, moon roofs or kitty doors).
Interior components are aesthetically original (may have improved function or internals).
Interior components and appliances have been cleaned, repaired and restored to a serviceable condition with no damage or degradation, using appropriate materials and methods.
Unique features, appliances & fixtures to that model and year should still be present, (LPG Lamps, Service Control Centers, Byam Burners and Panel Ray heaters are examples).
Replacements or additions to appliances and fixtures should have been done with correct period units, or with modern units installed in such a way they blend into the layout.
Cabinetry, shrouds and linings should be original or replaced using period materials and methods.
Cabinetry finish should be applied as per the original (painted, varnished or oiled wood). Interior wall linings should be as per original – green/tan paint (’40′s), Zolatone Paint (’52+) or Vinyl lining (’70′s).
Upholstery and soft-goods should be clean good condition and in period cloth or neutral/earth tones.
Any subfloor rot has been removed and repaired or replaced. Floor Covering should be clean and solid and from appropriate materials. Carpeting, Linoleum, or vinyl tiles are the norm.
The plumbing system should be complete with no leaks. The water system should supply water from an onboard tank through either a hand pump, demand pump or compressor as appropriate. The street water system should supply water to all the appropriate fixtures.
Wiring should be in a safe condition. Any modifications should be to code. Electrical fixtures should be original or period reproductions.
Potable water tanks should have been cleaned & disinfected. Any new tanks should be installed in an unobtrusive manner.
Toilet should be original or equivalent replacement (porcelain for porcelain, etc.)
Any new black or gray water tanks should be installed in an unobtrusive manner.

Exterior

Any major dents, scrapes and punctures have been removed or repaired, minor shallow dents are OK (small hail dents or bumps).
The exterior skin has been polished within the last few years. It does not have to be clear-coated. The panel edge seams and openings have bean neatly sealed with Parbond, Vulkem or similar sealant.
Belly Skin is complete and secure.
The original window weather-stripping is tight, or has been correctly replaced.
Window openers all work. All screens are present & in good condition.
Door works smoothly, hinge is in good condition, handles, locks & latches are in good working order, and are original or appropriate replacements.
Roof vent mechanisms are working originals or appropriate looking replacements.
Running gear (brakes, tires, bearings, shocks, springs) are in good working order and condition. Should have records showing servicing dates within the last 4 years. Wheels (rims) are appropriate with hubcaps (baby moon) or pie-plate hubcaps or spoked aluminum for the later models. It is OK to have the original split rim wheels replaced. It is OK to have original hydraulic brakes converted to electric brakes. It is preferable to keep the original hydraulic hardware in place.
LPG tanks have OPD’s and are polished aluminum or silver painted steel.
All exterior vent fittings are original or appropriate replacements.
Exterior lamps are working originals or newer historical reproductions. Trailer wiring works, and the wire harness is in good condition.
All exterior placards & nameplates should be present and have been repainted if necessary.
Tongue and bumper shouldn’t have any exposed rust and should be painted silver.
Any attached awnings are ZipDee or A&E, and are in good working order. Extra points for original or reproduction free-standing pole/staked awnings.
Step should be original, painted silver, and in good working condition.

“Renovated” Condition

This defines trailers that have been fixed up, but not with intentions of maintaining originality (see Table D). They are of the same functional condition as Restored, but don’t meet the originality requirements. Often these are used as a low cost family camper, specialized applications (live-in, office, etc), or are rescues of previously neglected trailers. They usually have layouts not found on the original, or have non-period cabinetry and finishes. Appliances and fixtures are usually modernized. The interior usually has been custom painted (non Airstream original). Valuation usually falls somewhere between “Restored” and “As Found”. How far is determined by how close the buyer and sellers preferences and tastes are.

“Custom Renovations” are classified as completed re-dos of an Airstream from the ground up like that from Vintage-Vacations and other full-time commercial restoration outfits – and can run from the high $30K’s to over $80K. Such re-dos rarely recover the initial cost of the mod when resold. Customized trailers are meant just for the satisfaction of the customer. Once again, when buying used, it will be the trailer that is in the best condition that will always be the best deal, no matter the price. If you can purchase one of these trailers, you will always be money ahead vs. paying to have it done on your own trailer.

Table B – Vintage Price guide

Every collectable book you open has a price guide in the back, so why not a website? They are not “official” or gospel, just the authors take on what he or she sees as ballpark prices for items. That sums up this table, and is intended to be just a guide for those who haven’t formed their own opinion yet of values based on experience. This price guide is based on adjusted sale ad asking prices and known sales from talking to buyers/sellers. Higher prices are summertime West Coast prices. Make sure to understand the condition criteria. Most Airstreams that are sold fall between “As Found” and Average condition. With that said:

CAUTION!! Do not use the values listed here until you have read and understand the text relating to condition and the items that influence price. Too many people are automatically assuming their trailer is in Average or Restored condition. Restored trailers are very rare, and unless a trailer has been well maintained and used, it will not be Average condition.

Era	Size/Model	"As Found" (See Table A)	"Average" Condition (See Table A)	Restored** (See Table A)
Post War	1940's Pipe Frames
	16' Wee Wind	$2000 - $5000	$7000 - $9000	$15,800 - $18000
	18'-19' Trailwind & Clipper	$1100 - $2900	$5000 - $9500	*
	22' Liner	$1100 - $1800	$3800 - $7500	*
The '50's	(1951-1960)
	15' Cruisette	$2100 - $3800	$5400 - $7000	*
	16' Bubble	$2200 - $3290	$5500 - $8800	$13800 - $20100
	17' Clipper	$1900 - $2800	$3900 - $7500	*
	16' Pacer	$2500 - $4800	$5500 - $8800	$13800 - $18500
	18' Globetrotter / Caravel / Traveler / Pacer / Other	$1100 - $3100	$4200 - $8200	$12500 - $18200
	21'-22' Safari / Flying Cloud / Caravanner / Custom	$1100 - $4200	$5100 - $7800	$13500 - $19500
	24' Tradewind (1959+)	$1200 - $2800	$3800 - $7800	$11600 - $18800
	26' Cruiser / Overlander	$1000 - $2500	$3900 - $7200	$12000 - $18700
	28' Ambassador	$1000 - $1900	$3200 - $7000	$10500 - $18900
	30' Liner / Sovereign	$1000 - $1800	$3200 - $6000	$11000 - $18600
The '60's	(1961-1968)
	16' Bambi	$1900 - $3800	$5000 - $8800	$13700 - $20200
	17' Bambi II / Caravel	$2000 - $3800	$5200 - $8900	$12900 - $17800
	19'-20' Globetrotter	$1600 - $2900	$4400 - $8600	$12600 - $17400
	22' Safari / Flying Cloud / Caravanner	$1000 - $2500	$4700 - $8200	$11900 - $17000
	24' Tradewind	$1100 - $2800	$3900 - $7000	$10900 - $16500
	26' Overlander	$1000 - $2000	$3800 - $6500	$10800 - $16000
	28' Ambassador	$1000 - $1900	$3500 - $6000	$11000 - $16100
	30' Sovereign	$900 - $1800	$3400 - $6500	$11000 - $17000
The '70's	(1969-1981)
	18' Caravel	$1900 - $3800	$5700 - $9100	$14800 - $17600
	21' Globetrotter	$1500 - $3500	$4800 - $8300	$11000 - $16800
	23' Safari / Caravanner	$1200 - $2700	$4670 - $7700	$10900 - $16300
	25' Tradewind	$1100 - $2800	$4600 - $7800	$10500 - $16100
	27' Overlander	$1200 - $2300	$4200 - $7700	$10300 - $16500
	29' Ambassador	$1700 - $2300	$4100 - $7500	$10300 - $16400
	31' Sovereign	$1800 - $2400	$4100 - $8500	$10200 - $16900
	31' Excella 500	$2200 - $3500	$4600 - $9100	$10700 - $17100
				* Too few known sales to determine

Price Trends and “Value”

In the above chart you will notice a few things:

Current Market Trends (June 2010). Prices have been in turmoil the last 32 months. It may be that most used trailers are bought using cash or equity loans on people’s homes, both of which have been in short supply since the housing meltdown. On the for-sale sites, many Airstreams are going unsold at their asking prices, and eBay prices are not meeting reserves in many cases for nice trailers. As we got closer to 2008 winter and again in 2009, the number of trailers being offered for sale did not increase as it has in the past. With prices down in general, it may be that folks realize that the days of ever increasing prices (making a quick buck) are over for awhile, or are going to hold on to them and wait it out. We’ll keep an eye on the market this the 2010 selling season and look for changes in trends or to prices ranges. Prices have dropped remarkably over the last 3 years on larger trailers, especially those in less than ready to use condition. This may be attributed to higher gas prices, but may be even more related to the rise in interest rates and the reduction in the use of home equity loans and refinancing – the prime source of funds to buy and fix up a used trailer like an Airstream. It may also be the eBay crowd has found out just how much work and cost is required to get an older trailer usable again. Many sellers are also getting sneaky by over classifying the condition of their trailers, so buyer beware.
Prior Market trends. Prices for Airstreams rocketed upwards dramatically in the mid to late 1990′s, possibly owing to the rise of the internet and the ability to share information and find for-sale units outside of your local area. Prices then cooled off in the 2000 to 2004 timeframe as the economy cooled, except for small trailers, which have continued to slowly rise, especially those in very good condition. In 2005, prices in general had started rising again until the 2008-2010 gas/interest rate/equity loan issues. Ebay prices have actually stabilized over the last few years – maybe owing to the wising up of buyers on the amount of work and money it takes to fix up one of these diamonds in the rough. What is of note is the number of retreads you see on eBay, trailers that sold on eBay just a few years prior, but now back on the auction block in a little worse condition, with some interior parts disassembled, or with a half-hearted attempt at polishing a section of the trailer accomplished.
“As Found” prices rise as the trailer age gets newer. This does not mean necessarily they are worth more, it is because they are less likely to be found in as overall poor as condition as the earlier year models.
1970′s Restored values are not as much as ’50′s & ’60′s models. This is because there are very few Restored examples, as they have not deteriorated enough to need restoring – most are still in an arrested state of decline at worst. This may change with time.
Restored prices are substantially higher than Average condition prices. **Restored or renovated trailers are rare, and are just a small percentage of the population. It takes a lot of time and money to make a 25-55 year old trailer like new. Most every day usable Airstreams will fall somewhere in the high Average value range.
Values top out in the $18K area. It is real hard to justify anything higher. If someone spent $2000 on a poor condition trailer and puts $25,000 into it….sorry, it comes back to my axiom of better condition trailers are the better value for the buyer.
Truly restored Airstreams rarely come up for sale – as noted earlier, most trailers advertised are usually “as found”, or are “undergoing renovation”.
When you get into the $10,000 to $18,000 range, each system must be in perfect working order, the structure has been gone through and repaired, all missing parts repaired or replaced, all surfaces are cleaned & ready to go, the trailer polished, and all soft goods are replaced – in other words “like new condition – ready to use, but using the old fixtures & materials”.
Another maximum limit is what new “equivalents” sell for. In the case of the shorter trailers, the 1998+ Bambi’s can be had for $12,000 used in like-new condition, and new Bambi’s and 22 footers are about $26K-$36K – that sets an upper limit that is unlikely to be crossed.
Another influence is new SOB’s (Some Other Brand). Conventional 17′-25′ travel trailers can be had for $14,000-$19,000 new – another price factor.
Rarely can a seller get their cost out of a completely restored or customized trailer. This comes back to the best values for buyers are the trailers in the best condition.
With the right market, with a small (Globetrotter & smaller) trailer completely restored & polished, the limit is about $19,000-$21,000 (Bambi’s included). Everything else is downhill from there. Large older trailers (Ambassadors & larger, Overlander’s to some degree) seem to attract the “park it” or “live in it” set, and there historically has not as much fevered restoration or nostalgia interest. That is changing lately, as many people are remodeling these larger Airstreams for use as cabins and guest houses.
Prices are higher in the Western US. Be it because of the weather, camping & travel opportunities, too much extra money, or whatever – it’s a fact of life.
Smaller trailers will usually bring more than larger trailers of the same vintage. This is because a smaller trailer is what is being sought out by present day weekend campers and travelers, and restoration of a small trailer is less a formidable task. Small trailers are equated with being easy to tow and easy to maintain. There is also a certain “cute factor” involved. Even Airstream has caught onto this fact with the introduction and success of the modern Bambi.
As recently as Oct 2002, a 1955 Flying Cloud that had been stored in a barn since 1960 fetched $23,000 at auction – in untested but complete original condition.
The recent focus on Airstream by such mainstream shows such as the 10 part restoration of a 1970 Overlander by the DIY Network has boosted the desirability of the longer trailers and 1970′s era trailers. Also, many people are becoming more savvy about the condition of the floors, and the amount of work it takes to restore the older trailers.
Don’t forget to factor in the cost of obtaining an Airstream when buying. Many buyers, thanks to the internet and ebay, have bought a trailer, only to find it cost $3000-$4000 to ship it across the US. Even in state deliveries can run $500+.

What’s this all mean? Condition and desirability. Highest prices for those in ready to roll restored condition, bought by people who don’t have the time or skills to do one themselves. Higher prices for good original condition trailers for people interested in restoring, average prices for neglected mostly original examples, and bargain basement prices for messed up and butchered trailers. The smaller the trailer, the higher the interest and price per foot.

Table C – Estimating cost of common repairs

Item	Cost*	Item	Cost*
Polish external skin - per foot of total trailer length	$110	Replace Refrigerator	$900-$1600
Strip Clear Coat - per foot of total trailer length	$50	Repair Refrigerator	$250
Wheels - steel / aluminum	$38 / $160	Repair / Replace HW Heater	$80 / $240
Tires - ea.	$78 - $120	Repair / Replace Air Conditioner	$80-$160 / $360-$600
Brakes - repair / plates	$50 / $110	Replace Toilet - porcelain	$280
Shocks - ea.	$24	Window Opener/seals, per window	$60
New Axle	$780	Skylight, 14 x 25	$120
New LP tank OPD valves, ea.	$45	Zolatone Paint Interior	$480
Dent removal - end cap (per dent)	$1180	Cushions, sofa - ea	$320
Flooring, carpet, vinyl, linoleum - sq ft	$3 - $12	Mattress, bed	$210
LPG Tanks, aluminum - ea.	$130	Repair & Gelcoat Fiberglass bathroom	$200-$500
Repair / Replace Stove / Range	$100 / $240	Replace Water Pump	$60
Replace Faucet	$90 - $120	Replace Curtains	$300 - $600
Replace Upholstery	$300 - $900	Replace Flooring (vinyl)	$500
Electric Tongue Jack	$220	New Propane Tanks, ea	$165
LPG Regulator	$60	Replace Screens	$120
Rock Guard	$100-$325	Replace Floor, Material Only, per linear foot	$25
Tongue Jack, manual	$75	'66-'68 Corning Windows, Material Only, EA	$220-$260
Overhaul Windows, Parts only - ea	$45	Replace Belly Skin, Material Only, per linear foot	$19
RV Shop Labor for repairs per hour	$50 - $65	Bits & Pieces - Add up in a hurry!!	$$$$$$$
Holding Tanks w/ Fittings	$240 ea.
*Includes labor. These costs will vary widely by locality and the quality of the material/product used, and are for rough order of magnitude estimating.

Table D – Airstream Originality

I equate this to a little bit of history.

In the late 1920′s and early 1930′s, big ornate radio consoles were made by the tens of thousands. Post WWII brought about shrinking of radio size and improvement of the reception & operation. By the thousands the console radios were made into linen cabinets, spice racks, had their legs cut off or had their workings modified or replaced. Nobody thought otherwise – there were “plenty”, and these appliances were “outdated”. Today a Sparton Equisone or Stromberg-Carlson set can fetch from $800 to $1100, but one modified or without the original innards can be had for less than $100.

The same can apply to Airstreams.

There are plenty, but as each year passes, more and more bite the dust through neglect, export, loss and “modifications”. Let’s face it, it is the old-time quality and period looks that attract people to vintage Airstreams rather than a new trailer or another brand/type. I have been following Airstream sales closely for over 11 years now, and notice that a vintage unit in original and undamaged condition will generate quick activity and a sale. As many of you know, we were looking for another 1950′s 22 footer. We came across the trail of 5 over the course of a few months. 3 were in fairly original condition with few mods – and each had been snapped up almost immediately. The other 2 were still for sale months later.

But you say your 1960′s or 1970′s trailer is not in that category? No one will care if it is original? “There are 100′s of these trailers?”, and so on?. That’s what the owners of those old radios or the 1950′s trailers we looked at thought, too. For whatever reason that we who lived through the era’s can’t explain, the 1960 & 1970 interiors will soon be found fascinating, too. That doesn’t mean that the internals can’t be improved, or additions/modifications can’t be made using period materials & methods. Shoot, each Airstream was custom in it’s own way. For those who just have to have a modern or super-custom interior, there are many stripped out or heavily modified trailers out there, just ready for such a make-over……and they are much cheaper too.

That should be a hint right there….

Refrigerator Replacement & Repair

Content Admin — Sat, 09 Jun 2012 02:49:17 +0000

Installing a New Refrigerator

Refrigerators are durable appliances if the burner orifice and chimney are kept clean and free of misguided “adjusting”. With no moving parts, they can last forever if maintained. But even then, there are times that they need to be replaced. In the case of our original M16 Dometic, it had been cannibalized and damaged to the point that even though I was able to restore the LPG operation, the poor thing was missing so many parts that replacement became necessary.

I recommend avoiding unnecessary replacement for three reasons. First, the cost – a new unit this size (Dometic RM2333) costs $750 uninstalled. Second, the newer plastic lined units just don’t have the same “soul” as the enameled steel and aluminum units of old. Third, the new units with their PC circuit boards, plastic knobs and trim and lightweight guts just aren’t going to last as long. A lastly – they just don’t fit! Almost every replacement situation requires some sort of complex “adapting”, as there are no direct one-for-one size equivalents.

In this case, it was a lot of adapting. On paper, the RM2333 looked close in size, only a little taller. In reality it also became 1 1/2″ wider due to a cutout that existed on the M16 for the wheelwell. The below tour will give you some idea of what it took to perform this major operation.

If I had a choice, I would always repair a unit. There are dealers who specialize in RV refrigerator repair – check your yellow pages. I’ve started a listing of dealers who can repair the older refrigerators, see below. More and more companies are popping up that will repair your RV refrigerator if you deliver or ship it to them. Expect to pay a lot for shipping, but saving a vintage unit or avoiding to have to modify you r trailer can be worth it.

Also, to learn more about RV gas refrigerators, check out these instructional websites:
RV Mobile
Ammonia Refrigeration Technicians Assn
Marks RV Refrigerator FAQ’s
Bryant RV (manuals too)

The old LPG only Dometic M16 installation. There is not a refrigerator made in this size anymore – a typical problem.

With the old end panel removed, you can see the drawer casing.

Showing the old unit removed and the floor and utilities prepped for the new. Epoxy floor repairs can be seen against the wall. The LPG line had to be repositioned and shortened since the new unit is deeper. The wheelwell that’s in the way can be seen to the right. The new 12v #10/2 wire and 110v outlet can be seen to the upper right. The 12v comes from the battery and the 110v from the circuit breaker panel.

The shims required to level the unit are in place. I removed the existing face frame for the old drawer and made a new one for the higher and wider opening required. Wood is mahogany, and all joints are screwed & glued.

Everything in place. From right to left, the new face frame, the vertical side panel support, the plywood drawer box, and the two vertical side panel supports that tie into the relocated trim on the sidewall. It was relocated 1 1/2″ closer to the door opening, flush with the countertop edge.

The new silverware drawer. I reused the old drawer pullout shelf & guide tracks and built a new box frame behind the new face frame. The bare wood from step 4 now sports a Watco Oil finish, matching the existing wood.

Finished Installation. The extended counter lip can be seen lower right. I used old aluminum extrusions from a 1940′s house demolition that fits the period

Other Notes:

The quality of wood that Airstream had available back then is no longer around. I had to sort and pay premium prices to get plywood even close to the original grain quality for this mod. Save your old cabinet parts whenever possible, you can use the wood elsewhere, or at the very worst as templates.
Always keep an eye open at garage sales, house demolitions, old hardware stores and even home centers for period materials that can used. That’s where I got the corner trim parts.
LPG is the fastest way to cool down the fridge – overnight and it’s ready to freeze ice. The 110v is underused on a small trailer like this – the opportunity for shore power is rare. The 12v feature is OK if you worry about traveling with the gas on, but we find we use it only because it’s there, “I paid the extra for it, and I’m going to use it!” I wouldn’t get that option again.
Be sure to check out the refrigerator section in the Restoration Resource section FAQ’s.

I’ve started a listing of dealers who know how to work on older units. Let me know of any that can added to the list.

Rico Pro Enterprises, 6631 Columbus Ave., Riverside , CA	951-785-7001
Gene Caprani, "Capo Services", Gatlinburg TN	865-579-6730
John Torrana, Travelmaster RV Center, Arcata, CA	707-822-4833
HOWELL'S VINTAGE RV APPLIANCE REPAIR, Santee, CA	619-449-6231
ATCO America, Philomath, Oregon	800-227-3180
Snowbird RV Center, Yuma, Arizona	928-782-5179
R&R Sales and Service, Walnut Ridge, Arkansas	870-886-6668
Cranes RV Refrigeration, Vallejo, CA	707-552-0337 or (Local Bay Area only) 800-309-0535
RV & Camper Refrigeration, 108 Indian Trail Rd. S, Indian Trail, NC 28079	704-821-9119
RV Cool - RV Refrigerator Repair, Wooster, AR	800-515-6823
RV Refrigerator Repair, Inc., Falkville, AL	256-784-5097
Trailer Refrigeration, Inc., Tucson, AZ	800-950-4874
RV Ice Box, Covington, TN	866-580-2653
Snyder's RV Refrigeration, East Stroudsburg, PA	570-223-7872
Affordable RV Refrigerator Repair Plus ,Fort Mill, SC	888-314-5769
Gene's RV & A/C Repair, Mesa, AZ , but also units shipped to the shop.	480-833-7210
RV Fridge Store Replacement cooling units	866-977-0877

Window Repair-1954-1958

Content Admin — Sat, 09 Jun 2012 00:04:56 +0000

Windows

After 45+ years, expect the windows to be fully dysfunctional. Rebuilding them is one of the most important things you will do to a trailer, as it is imperative to prevent rain and critters from getting inside once you start on the interior, and since most windows won’t open, it is hard to get any ventilation until repairs are made. Here are the typical steps I used to repair the windows.

Before

Bent drip caps & dried out glazing seals

Corroded & rusty frames and screen

After

Post renovation – ready to trim the drip cap sealant

Cleaned & polished frames, new screen and seals

Removing the corrosion from the window parts can be done with steel wool, but a Walter Finishing Line Tool is the way to go.

After removing the rust, spray painted the center support. It is a good idea to remove the the inner wind opening trim to clean up and to allow better access to replace the screens.

Rusted fasteners are replaced with new 6-32 Palnuts (original) and pan head screws (Vintage Trailer Supply.)

Tools of the trade – the Walter Line Finishing Tool, air drill motor with Scotch Brite disks, steel wool and various wire and abrasive wheels.

Completed window with the new glazing seal from Vintage Trailer Supply.

The exterior window seal is riveted in place, and is available from Vintage Trailer Supply. It is advisable to replace this seal only if they are torn or crumbling. See below for how to do it.

New galvanized steel screen (VintageTrailer Supply ) is cut 3/4″ longer than the oust side of the screen V- flange, then installed using a screen roller tool (VintageTrailerSupply). This shows why the inner trim needs to be removed. The easiest way to replace the screens is to remove the entire window by drilling out all the rivets under the exterior seal, but would be a lot of work.

A broad row of Vulkem sealant is applied to the straightened & cleaned drip cap. The bent drip caps are easily straightened once they are removed from the trailer using flat nosed pliers.

Any tail of the screen is tucked over and re-rolled with the screen roller tool.

The screen installed and the corrosion removed & ready for the window and drip cap install.

Clecos temporarily hold the drip cap in place.

Olympic Rivets (Vintage Trailer Supply) being installed

Olympic Rivet Shaver tool

An Olympic Rivet. Installed using a normal pop-rivet puller, and shaved with a drill mounted shaver. (Vintage Trailer Supply)

Both front/back and the side window style openers are available from Vintage Trailer Supply or BlaineWindow (use part # 00020-9-TD-L(R)-037 and drill out the end guide). For smaller windows, you can use the 6 inch 00020-6-L(R)-037 from Blaine or the smaller operator available from VTS.

Replacement sliders are from Vintage Trailer Supply

Other windows

The little side vent window opener that strips out due to weak pot metal gearing. These require a special short arm opener that is available as a replacement (shown above right) from Vintage Trailer Supply. They also use the replacement Nylon Friction Pad.

The rear “Escape Style” window. The window has a hinged frame, released by the two latches on the bottom, and swings up for escape. The latch hooks used on all these windows are still available from Vintage Trailer Supply.

The opener here shown is a LH teardrop style available from Blaine Window (see above). The smaller generic replacements will not work on the large forward and back windows.

Window Frame Seals

After 50 years, the bulb seals have hardened up. As it takes drilling out the rivets and removing the window assembly, it is a good idea to only replace those that need it, usually the bottom seals or torn and damaged seals.

Shoot Vulkem up under the window and the skin of the trailer.

The seal is from Vintage Trailer Supply, and is attached with Olympic Rivets. The corners are sealed with black silicone sealant (hardware store item).

Sofa Beds (Gauchos)

Content Admin — Fri, 08 Jun 2012 23:37:00 +0000

It seems that the front and side pull-out sofa beds often get removed for various misguided reasons over the years, and later owners wish to restore the original functionality and layout during a restoration.

Because this comes up frequently, I have made a colored assembly sketch of both a side and front installation. The actual dimensions will vary by model and year, but using the plans as a guide along with clues from your existing cabinetry, you should be able to fabricate an installation that looks and functions like original. The Walters of Wabash wood sliding supports are still available.

The plan links are at the bottom of the page.

Here you are looking at the front sofa with the plywood back folded down and the cushions removed. This back area can be used for linen storage.

Same sofa with the back rest folded up. The front of the sofa is attached to the plywood, the back to the Masonite. When pulled out they slide against each other, and, the two pieces form the bed.

The side sofa extended and with the Masonite removed showing the Walters table slides. That’s the wheelwell to the right and the tub storage to the left.

Close-up of the table slides. View is looking forward from the wheelwell housing.

There are fiberglass tubs under each sofa that serve as drawers, and can be loaded in the house and carried out to the trailer. We had to use fiberglass cloth & resin on many of ours to repair them. replacements are hard to find due to the unique size.

Plans for the Side sofa-bed

Plans for the Front sofa-bed

Brass Thetford Dump Valves

Content Admin — Thu, 07 Jun 2012 22:58:38 +0000

Thetford Brass Dump Valve

Courtesy of Colin Hyde from GSM Vehicles, here is how to replace the old dump valve assembly that was found on ~1959 – ~1964 Airstreams. This valve frequently leaks, and the old style sewer hose fittings aren’t available anymore.

Remove the old valve assembly completely right back to the brass casting imbedded into the fiberglass.
Fabricate an aluminum adapter plate out of 1/2” thick 6061 T6 plate. The adapter is about about 4 1/2” square, with a hole in the center the same size as the exit hole coming out of the tank.
Drill & countersink four holes 1/4” dia to suit the bolt pattern of the brass casting on the tank.
Drill & tap four holes 1/4-20 to match the modern Valterra black tank valve bolt hole centers into the plate, but slightly offset from the countersunk ones.
Coat the brass tank casting with silicone around the sealing surface before fitting the plate.
Use stainless steel counter sunk 1/4-20 machine screws to attach the plate to the tank casting.
The 1/4-20 bolts that come with the Valterra assembly are used to fasten the assembly to the plate, along with silicone on the mating surfaces.
As Airstreams have very low ground clearances (especially the early ones) compared to modern Airstreams and white boxes, use the shortest Valterra “T” manifold that has an inlet fitting for the larger black valve at the top and the smaller gray valve on the side, along with the bayonet fitting for the stinky slinky on the bottom.
As the modern assemblies only have one gray inlet & the vintage brass valve assembly had two, you will have to add a “Y” in PVC before the two gray lines actually gets to the manifold assembly. This is pretty easy to do from parts available from any box store plumbing department.

The end of this whole assembly ends up very close to the original brass fitting height & allows you to use modern slinky bayonet fittings.

The old valve is removed , including the studs from the threaded inserts

Valterra body fitting bolted to the 2 valves, and the sewer hose fitting (and cap) on the bottom. The nuts holding the large valve to the top are temporary, and are replaced by the adapter plate later on.

another view…

and from the top.

The adapter plate made from 1/2″ aluminum. The threaded valve screw holes are lower and left, the 4 countersunk holes that mount the adapter body to the tank are above and right.

The smaller gray water valve can be pointed in any convenient direction The Valterra 1/4-20 bolts will be tightened up into the threaded holes once the adapter body is attached to the tank using the countersunk Stainless Steel screws.

Installed in palce with the two gray water lines T’d into the small valve

’65 Caravel – Axle Damage

Content Admin — Thu, 24 May 2012 05:24:48 +0000

A Bump in the Road…

Breaking an axle and skin panel damage
Coming back from the Mendocino Coast in April of 2003, we decided to go down the Bohemian Highway from Rio Monte to Santa Rosa via Occidental. This scenic trip was ended with a loud bang and the sound of tearing and scraping metal. At highway speed on a smooth road, the axle spindle had broken flush with the backing plate, and the tire/wheel assembly folded up into the wheel well blowing out the side of the skin panel as a result. Below are some pictures that document the incident and the repair. At the end is some info as to the cause of the break, and what it means to other vintage Airstream owners.

A pile of brake parts and rendered metal. The axle spindle is snapped off flush with the backing plate.

Getting an object that doesn’t want to roll up onto a Roll-Back flatbed

The frame is sitting flush on the ground on the RH side – the safety hoops on the bumper (buried in the dirt here) kept the frame from riding on the asphalt

Finally on the flatbed…

All tied down, but leaning precariously

The Airstream hospital in the redwoods…

…luckily the accident occurred near some friends who live in the Redwoods in Sonoma County. The trailer got to stay with their Airstream collection, and made the trips up to do the axle replacement bearable.

Unfortunately in the endeavor to get the Caravel back on the road ASAP, no pictures were taken of the actual axle replacement, but I have some additional axle info on a Restoration Resource page.

Replacing the damaged skin panel

Removing the skin panel

Panel cut with a hand-held pneumatic air shear. The wheel well housing is visible with the insulation batt removed

The new cutout .032 2024-T3 skin panel from Airparts drilled and ready to rivet

The Olympic Rivets ready to shave (right ones still need to be snipped)

The finished panel – good as new. The trailer now rides up good 3 inches higher thanks to the new axle. The aluminum cutout trim is available from Hoskin & Muir (pn A604T, by phone order only)
Putting a new skin panel on is also a good indication as to how the trailer finish would have looked new, using the new aluminum panel as a guide.

Look familiar? This is not ours, but another Caravel with the exact same failure..

Further Thoughts & Information

The root cause of our broken axle is one that all 1960′s Airstream owners should be concerned with. Seems the early Dura-Torque axles had spindles made from forged steel (as are most vintage conventional leaf spring axles). This steel continues to age and work harden until it fractures, usually right at the inner bearing shoulder – which was square. This is exactly what happened to us with dire results, it sheared off right at that stress concentrating square shoulder. Henschen changed the design in the late 1960′s to early ’70s, depending on axle size, to cold rolled steel, tapered bearings and a thicker spindle. The only way to tell is at your next bearing lube, check to see if you have a tapered inner bearing. So far, no one can give me any sure dates on the changeover. It only seems to occur on the 5 bolt small axle used on the Caravel, too. While the larger 6 bolt axles may be susceptible, there just doesn’t seem to be reports of it occurring.

With how much better the trailer pulls and looks, the trouble from the broken axle was worth it now. It is also an expensive way to get a bearing grease pack and new brakes too! A still good axle should have the arm angled downward with the weight on the wheels. Having just replaced the axle on our ’65 Caravel, I was amazed how much that angle is on a new axle – about 20 degrees. The trailer now sits a good 3 inches higher. (One inch is due to the change in axle bracket design.) The trailer tracks and pulls with noticeable improvement too, and I didn’t think it was bad to begin with.

The axle change went rather well. You have to drill 4 new 11/16th” holes in the frame mount brackets. The only pain is getting new shock mounts welded to the axle, as the modern ones are in different positions than the old. A welding shop did it for me for $60.

As for checking out your axle, any Airstream dealer can do that. They can also replace the axle if necessary – and they are the only ones who can order an axle for you from Henschen. Henschen is a wholesale mfg, selling primarily to OEM, and was getting overburdened by all the vintage Airstream inquiries. Their other choice was not selling individual axles at all, so this is better than nothing I guess. Cost is about $800 plus shipping ($80 from Ohio to California). The other options are a Dexter TorFlex axle and one from Axis Products, but you take all the responsibility for dimensions and specifications.

See this Restoration Resource section for more information on leaf-spring axles for older vintage trailers, and don’t forget the FAQ section.

More info & tips on the methods used here can be found in the FAQ section of the website.

Insulation

Content Admin — Tue, 22 May 2012 17:22:28 +0000

Boring stuff, but important. Early on I thought the existing insulation could be saved, but for the most part ended up getting replaced. The stuff below the floor got replaced of course with the new floor, but the insulation between the walls had it own issues too. There were two kinds, some sort of white mineral wool (not asbestos, thank goodness) that was just breaking into tiny particles, and some of the better constructed fiberglass batt insulation higher up had succumbed to leaks and rodent infestations – and some just plain smelled bad.
New insulation came from 16″ wide batts of Johns Manville R13 fiberglass insulation designed for 4″ house framing, with the kraft paper face peeled off and the batts gently split in two, resulting in 2″ insulation. I used their EasyFit blankets that can separated (pulled apart) into various widths, which makes the common 12″ wide frames sections easy to cut to size.
The most impressive feature is the new Reflectix foil faced bubble wrap insulation, At 1/4″ thick, installing it alone dropped the interior temperature on two similar weather days, by 24degsF. Where you couldn’t put your hand against the inside of the outer skin on a sunny day, you could after the Reflectix was installed. A space age material that was unaffordable just a few years ago, this is good stuff, and I highly recommend it.

I was surprised how much cooler on sunny days (yes, this is California), and how warmer on cold winter days (yes, it freezes here), the newer insulation made the inside of the trailer.

Preparation

Original curbside insulation with the inner skin removed. The wires lay on both sides of the insulation.

The mineral wool (white) insulation that crumbled and emitted fine particulates into the air when touched. A full respirator was necessary to work with the stuff.

Area aft of the door opened up.

More manufacture workman graffiti – and just in case you didn’t know which factory the trailer was made…

OK, gross. You never know what is lurking behind your walls. You couldn’t tell from the outside or inside, but with the skin removed we found a large rat or bird nest where they had enlarged the hole around the bathroom vent pipe under the vent cap.

One of the areas in the insulation where some critter had built a nest in years past with elaborate tunnels and urine corroded nesting areas.

The crown area all opened up and cleaned.

Curbside galley area and the extensive corrosion area that existed behind the skin

With the inside skin out, dents like this one in one of the end caps were were easily popped out.

All the corrosion areas on the skin and frames was removed with a high speed die-grinder with scotch-brite pads, and then primed.

Leaks

With the inner skin out, I checked for leaks with a garden hose. Even I was extremely surprised with the number of leaks, especially in the ends caps, that were present.

You can see the trail down from the leak, and at the bottom of the trail was, you guessed it, corrosion and a rotted floor in the past.

Aft end opened up showing the old automotive body sealer Airstream used to seal the endcap seams.

It wasn’t always successful as seen by the evidence of this leak that had been going on for quite awhile.

Once all the leak spots were identified with the garden hose, I cleaned them with a wire brush and sealed the areas with Polyurethane sealant.

New Insulation

Streetside before cleanup.

Same area after corrosion cleanup, priming and installation of the Relfectix insulation layer.

Curbside before cleanup and after, with the Reflectix and fiberglass batt insulation.

Looking aft with the Reflectix installed once the leaks were fixed.

Odd wedge shaped cuts were required to fit the end caps.

Endcap assemblies are easily removed once the center skins are out, as they are only held is place with a few pop-rivets. The removed sections reminded Krista and I of a Cylon Raider…

Some of our best work always ends getting covered up.

Some of the original fiberglass sections were reusable and I cut them up and used them in bays that had lots of lots of wiring – 1 layer on the outside of the wire, 1 on the inside – sorta like a sandwich with a wire filling.

Tacking the skin panels back up.

Clecoing the inner skin panels back over the new insulation. Riveting is done with a pneumatic rivet puller from Harbor Freight and 1/8″ x 1/4″ rivets from there too.

More to come

Finished Skin Panels all installed, Zolatone painting the panels ….

The Relfectix insulation is available from Amazon.

Levelers

Content Admin — Tue, 22 May 2012 16:55:46 +0000

One thing that has improved since the Flying Cloud was made in 1956, is the method by which to stabilize and level the the trailer when camping. If you ever traveled or camped, you know what I mean. The standard of the era was the Reese aluminum screw stands. A pain to install, limited in height adjustment, and not able to actually level the trailer, plus with their small surface area, were subject to rocking – and then there was the matter of where to store them while traveling. Not use anything? Having the floor pitch around as you get in and out of the trailer is the result, not to mention spilled coffee or waking your partner up in the middle of the night with a mini-earthquake while you tip-toe to the bathroom.

Solution? The heavy-duty steel scissor jacks designed for RV’s. They bolt on the frame with large lag screws, and can lift the trailer to level if necessary. They tuck up out of sight unless you look directly under the trailer, and while not as convenient as the multi-thousand dollar hydraulic version in motorhomes, they do run up and down quickly with a socket on the end of a cordless drill. I think Wally would have approved…

The 24″ levelers installed on the belly skin right below the frame member

The extra 2.5″ in height from the new axle made me feel secure in installing something hanging down on the bottom of the belly skin. They’re still higher than the axle and the bottom of the tanks, and the rear ones are far enough forward not to strike sidewalks when exiting gas stations.

Worried about striking something with one while backing up ? That is why I recommend the lag screws that come with it as opposed to welding. I’ve seen one of these get ripped off (not mine). It pulls the bolt out without damaging the frame, and you can reinstall with a larger diameter lag bolt.

The front jacks in the up poistion. Here they are mounted to the frame where it starts angling inward towards the hitch.

…and extended (above), and what you see from the side (below).

I found I could actually raise the wheel up off the ground using the two jacks on one side- convienient for changing a tire.

They are relatively cheap for such good quality, only $88/pair with shipping from Amazon

Exterior Trailer Lights

Content Admin — Tue, 22 May 2012 16:50:07 +0000

In order to haul the trailer back and forth from the storage area, one of the first orders of business was getting the running lights and stop/turn signals working again. After 45 years, every gasket, seal and socket had turned to crumbs. All the steel parts were very rusted and corroded.

The Bargman company made most of the lights used by Airstream in the ’50′s & ’60′s. These small #9′s with #11 lenses were used from about 1954 to 1958.

A completed Bargman#9 taillight. The same Nuvite polish used on the exterior skin will work on the lenses too.

These were the removed lights – pretty much piles of rust

Tail-lights

Rebuilding – First try – 2002

To remove the rust, all the metal parts were sandblasted and painted with silver rustoleum. Cork seals were cutout similar to the old. (bad idea on both -2009)

Broken down into its 3 major components. The light socket contacts are new replacements from the auto parts store

There are a lot of parts involved. The black strips are mastic strips used to seal the lamp housings in the trailer cutout.

View of the rear of the completed light showing the cork flange seal. (another bad idea – 2009)

Trailer cutout showing corrosion under and around opening. The electrical system was set up for dual element 6V bulbs for separate stop and turn circuits, not at all usable with todays tow vehicles. I disconnected the old stop light circuit and installed modern single element bulbs.

Mastic installed around the polished opening

Installed

Completed installation

Marker Lights

The sandblasted base – compare to the pictures above. Ready for the Imiron paint

All new seals were cut from cork gasket material

Skin cutout showing corrosion

Corrosion removed

The ready to install assemblies with their new stainless steel hardware

A finished installation

License Plate Light

The Bargman light with its all new parts

The light and bracket received Imiron paintafter being sandblasted

Installed

Tongue Jack

Content Admin — Tue, 22 May 2012 16:28:20 +0000

The original Atwood jack had been bent some time in the past. We used the new beefier 2000# Atwood, which is larger in diameter than the 1000# original that bent, necessitating enlarging the hole in the tongue frame. On the other hand, the handle is now made of cheap metal with a plastic handle that UV rays will destroy in about 7 years. So, I transferred over the old handle to the new jack. I originally painted it silver, but it kept rusting, so I had it chromed, and after putting a hand trowel grip on it, it has been fine ever since.

The old jack assembly

View looking down on the enlarged holes to accommodate the new jack – about a 1/4″ increase in diameter

The fitting prior to painting. I also installed new dual 5/16″ safety chains at this time, installed into holes drilled into the bottom flange plate of the tongue.

The installed jack with the “old” handle painted silver (that did not last). The jack will be painted later with the rest of the tongue. The disconnected Stromberg hydraulic slave brake valve is in the background.

Here’s the handle 3 years after being chromed. The rubber grip is from a garden hand trowel.

The Atwood was about $28 and is rated at 2000# with a shaft diameter of 2″ vs the old diameter of 1 3/4″. There is an optional flat plate that goes on the bottom of the shaft, or you can use a block of wood. The lighter 1000# jacks have a caster (plastic wheel). The original metal wheels could support 2000#.