Q: I have an early 1960’s trailer. Do you have a schematic of the wiring on this trailer?
A: There were no owners manuals until 1964, that is where this information would normally be. Since a schematic is critical to restoring and maintaining your Airstream, it is a good idea to create one, mapping out your wiring and understanding where everything goes. A Test Light and a few alligator clip pig-tails will help.

Q: Where can I get replacement Marker Lights?
A: A cheap looking replacement for the Bargman teardrop style is made, and the 1960’s oval and 1970’s “double bullseye” lights are still being manufactured by the original manufacturer Grote. All 3 can be purchased at Vintage Trailer Supply.

Q: I have an old trailer in which the clearance lights and taillights don’t work and no schematic. How can I track this down?
A: Schematics weren’t published until 1964. However, the following general suggestions have proven helpful in the past:

1. In trailers of this age, the wires coming from the tow car pass down the tongue via a pigtail to a junction point above the belly pan a few inches in back of the front of the body shell. There is an inspection cover in the belly pan at this point. From this point, the wires run back to taillights and over to the Marker Lights and the brakes if equipped. At, or near this point is a ground to the trailer shell. A faulty ground shows up as no lights working when the trailer is unhitched. Make sure this ground connection is OK.
   In the 1950 era trailers , the junction point was inside the wall just above where the harness wire goes in to the belly skin.
2. In checking circuit continuity, use a light bulb, not an ohm or voltmeter. The reason: A fragile (high resistance) circuit may appear good by the meter, but it is not good enough to light a bulb.
3. Bulbs often are corroded into the sockets. Use WD-40, or crush and replace the bulbs. Clean all contact surfaces. Replacement bayonet sockets are available from RV Dealers.
4. All grounds to the trailer shell are suspect. Wire in new ones frequently. You can’t have too many. The rivets that hold the Marker Light bases in place are suspect, as they are used for the ground. Replace these or install short jumper wires.

Q: Where can I get replacement lenses for the Bargman 99 “Wedding Cake” taillights?
A: Reproductions are available from Vintage Trailer Supply.

Q: I think my older original recessed Bargman “9” taillights (#11 lenses) are wired for 6 volts still. What can I do?
A: These were originally 6 volt lights with independent turn and stop elements in addition to the tail (running) light. The easiest fix is to replace the socket pigtail with a single contact type and replace the bulbs with 12 volt equivalents. Cap off the unused circuit for the old brake light circuit.

Q: Someone dealt with the 6 volt issue by replacing the Bargman 9’s with cheap replacements. What can I do?
A: Signal-Stat makes a similar recessed truck light with a chrome ring that looks pretty close. The part number is #3612. Grote has one too, #52522.

Q: My Bargman 9’s are still there but are in bad shape, are lenses and the rings still available?
A: Once again Vintage Trailer Supply comes through with replacements. The rings aren’t cheap though, but are made out of non-rusting aluminum. Your existing rings can be chrome plated by any custom-rod shop for about $30.

Q: My flush mounted porch light is melted looking. What can I do?
A: This is also called a “scare” light for some reason (used to scare intruders away?). It is really just a back-up light made by Signal-Stat, and if left on for real long periods of time, the lens will melt. Replacement lenses and lights are still available from Signal-Stat and and Vintage Trailer Supply.

Q: My rear license plate holder and light is rusted out. Where can I get one?
A: The one used from 1958 to 1968 was made by Signal-Stat (part # 435W), and is still available from truck/trailer part stores and Vintage Trailer Supply. They also have the 1970’s version too.

Q: Our 1948 Liner has just a single taillight in the middle. Is this legal?
A: It used to be until the early 1950’s, when federal laws were passed requiring turn indicators. This early single light was called the “Universal Night Owl” and contained a stoplight, taillight with license plate illumination. The early retrofit for these trailers was the use of “Yankee Turnmaster” lights, added to the outboard corners of the rear. Conventional all in one lights started appearing in 1951-1952. The older trailers were grand-fathered, but even they too were required to have lights installed. This may mean your trailer hasn’t been licensed or used in decades!

Q: How are AIrstream electrical hitch plugs wired up?
A: If you have an older Airstream, they may be wired different than the 7pin standard of today, even though it may be the same connector. Best bet is change the wires around to match the following, so that you can use another tow vehicle if necessary or in emergencies.

Tow vehicle receptacle shown. Mirror reverse (flip left and right) for the trailer plug layout.

Electrical, 110/12 Volt Wiring

Q: Were Airstreams made with aluminum wire? Must it all replaced?
A: As a result of copper shortage during the Vietnam War years of between 1966 and 1968, Airstream used aluminum for some of the primary 1110v wiring. It seems it was based on copper Romex wire availability, and as such not all trailers during that period used aluminum Romex. One cannot connect aluminum wire to devices or connectors that are not rated for AL-CU usage, such as the circuit breakers and outlets and switches. Where the aluminum and copper parts touch together a chemical reaction occurs which forms an insulating layer between the two, not at all what you want in an electrical circuit. You have choices:

1. You can arrange that only copper wire ties into these CU only rated parts. You can do this by interposing short pieces of copper wire at the box, making the copper to aluminum connection (wire to wire) a short distance away using a special type of bimetallic connector lug and gel compound made for this purpose.
2. You can remove the inner skins and replace all the wiring with copper.
3. Or you can replace the circuit breakers, connectors, switches and outlets with those rated AL-CU and use the dielectric compound. You still must make the connectors to pigtail components such as motors and some lamps with the special connectors. Ask an electrical supply house or electrician for help on something as important as this.

Q: What is a Uni-volt?
A: A Uni-Volt is a brand-name for a power converter system used by Airstream. The system was first used about 1964, and is used to provide 12 volt DC power and 18 volt AC power to the trailer from 100v shore power. Being a ferroresonant converter, it will hum. Some people turn theirs off at night. It is basically a power reduction transformer, AC to DC rectifier with filter capacitors. The 12VDC volts is used to supply the light fixtures and the 18VAC for the fan motors. When not connected to shore power, the trailer battery is used to supply 12VDC to these users.
The 12VDC went to the lights and the 18VAC went to the vent and pump motors. A 12 volt light bulb works equally well on 12 volts DC or AC. But a 12 VDC motor, if used on AC must have 18 volts supplied to it to function correctly because the effective DC voltage of 18VAC is 12.7 volts.

Q: How do I determine if my Uni-volt converter is working?
A: With the Uni-volt off, measure the voltage at the battery. It should be 13.8V +/- 1V. Turn the converter on – the measured voltage should increase by about 0.5V.
The only part that routinely goes bad is the capacitor. Usually is 25 uFd at 600 volt AC. You should be able to get one at a motor rewind shop or maybe an air conditioner repair place.

Q: Does the Uni-volt charge the trailer battery when connected to shore power?
A: The first Uni-volt systems introduced in 1964 did not, it was not until later when they added a regulated charging circuit that they did – and even then only on the larger trailers. On the other trailers, the tow-vehicle charging system is the only source of re-charge.

Q: I’m picking up an old Airstream that has an electrical plug with round terminals. Are the old Airstreams wired different?
A: Yes, but most have been converted over to the newer connectors and wiring layout. If by chance it hasn’t, you can convert it to the current standard as shown on this Marks RV info page.

Q: My trailer has this aluminum box on the front that looks like it was for a battery, but a battery won’t fit into it. What is it?
A: It’s for a tractor battery, still available at farm supply stores or battery places such as Interstate and Batteries Plus. If you want to use the box mounted on the front of the trailer, you have no choice other than to use that type. The type is a 3ET. Capacity is 600 Cold Cranking amps, which compares favorably to modern 12V deepcycle batteries, but is a little more expensive. To use a modern battery, options include mounting a new battery storage box on the tongue spicing in a new lead down to it, and using the old box as storage. Try to get the aluminum style boxes (hot-rod accessory), as the plastic ones fail from UV exposure (straps & latches). Mounting the battery under the bed next to an access door requires a little more work as it involves tie downs and venting the battery to the outside.

Q: I’ve been told my trailer has “Split-Rims”, and the tire dealer won’t replace my tires on them. What are these split-rims?
A: Split rims are used to describe a style of wheel popular up until the early 1960’s. The wheel consisted of a 2 part ring on the outside rim of the wheel. This was to allow easy replacement of the tire and inner-tube. The only catch was that if the ring was not seated correctly, as the tire was inflated it could fly-off with explosive force, injuring the person standing over the wheel. There are special cages to inflate such wheels, but most shops just have a blanket policy of no split-rims. The fix is to replace the rims with new solid steel conventional wheels. Click on below images to enlarge. You can see the spit rim ring seam at the bottom of the wheels.

Q: What size wheels do I use to replace the split-rims?
A: The standard for all single axle Airstreams, except the Bambi, is a 15″x6″, zero offset with a 6 lug pattern on 5.5″ spacing, rated at 2600#. A properly rated Chevy truck wheel will meet this sizing, too. Don’t use underrated car wheels. The desired color for originality is a black wheel.

Q: My wheels are 14.5″ in diameter, but look original – are they?
A: They most likely are. Airstream offered the smaller diameter wheels as an option in the 1950’s for buyers with automobiles to match the lower hitch heights. Often called “low-riders” today, many folks swap these out with standard 15″ rims to gain a little more ground clearance, but here is nothing wrong with leaving them as is. Finding tires may be an issue though.

Q: My Airstream doesn’t have any hubcaps. Where can I get some?
A: Depends on your year trailer. If it still had the split-rims wheels, the moon style hubcap has spring-clip that slipped inside the wheel center – these are no longer available and are hard to find. If you have conventional wheels, the style up to 1971 was a baby moon style of hubcap. 15″ wheels use a 10 1/4″ ID and 14″ wheels use a 9 1/8″ ID style. You can find them at any utility trailer dealer or on eBay. The later style hubcaps show up on eBay all the time.

Q: I’m not sure of what size tire to get for my trailer, as it seems the original sized tires are not readily available. What should I do?
A: Best bet is to get the trailer to a dealer, provide them with as much information as you can, and let them match, mount and then install the tires. That way if there is an issue, they are responsible for making the tire fit. Generally, the tire used on the older trailers were 7.00 x 15 LT (Light Truck) 8 ply bias ply tires of the era. Some exceptions are the small 16 to 18 foot trailers, which used a 6.70 x 15 LT tire, as did some early tandem axle trailers.
ST type (special trailer) tires weren’t available back then – the same with radial tires. The ST has a stiffer sidewall than a passenger car radial and has UV inhibitors in it – not really an issue if you use the trailer at least 6 times a year to release the friction activated inhibitors, and protect the tires from the sun while in storage. Radials were used, usually the 225SR15 and 205SR15 sizes once they came out in the ’70’s. You can retrofit radials in some cases where clearance is not an issue, but it is recommended to use the ST type, as the average radial sidewall flexes too much when used on a trailer.

Q: What style are these axles on my trailer?
A: Until 1962, axles used on airstreams varied greatly, from the cast cross member leaf-spring “Model A” type axles of the ‘40’s and early ‘50’s, to the heavy duty leaf-spring tubular type specialized trailer axles of the mid and late ‘50’s, usually by Hadco. In 1961 Airstream introduced their own unique suspension assemblies which were called Dura-Torque. Later, the suspension manufacturing unit was sold along with the design and rights. It became Henschen Mfg, and is located in an old building several blocks from Airstream in Jackson Center.
This new design was a square tube (axle) with a smaller square steel shank with two 90 degree angles (suspension arm) inserted into the larger tube. Cushion and support is provided by four approximately 12″ long round rubber rods of approximately 1/2″ diameter inserted between the flat side of the suspension arm and the corners of the square axle tube. The rods are temporarily placed in a super cooling freezer beside the work station, using liquid nitrogen to shrink the rubber rods. The rods are quickly removed from the freezer, placed by a gloved hand against the suspension arm, and the arm with rods are shoved into the axle tube. The weight ratings of the Henschen Dura-Torque axles are determined by the diameter and hardness of the rubber rods. To this durable but smooth riding system, conventional shock absorbers are then added for additional ride dampening.

Q: Do these Dura-torques wear out?
A: Yes. The rubber rods eventually will take a set from their own weight and just sitting. High-mileage trailers, or those left out in the elements can suffer from deterioration of the rubber rods will wear out even faster. There isn’t any hard and fast rules. There are early ‘60’s trailers with plenty of spring left, and 1970’s trailers that are shot. When the ‘spring’ goes from these axles, going over bumps and pot-holes can result in the torsion arm coming up and hitting the stop there to prevent the wheel from contacting the wheel-well or the rubber rods from being displaced. This jolt and not only shake up your packing, but can weaken the frame and trailer structure and skin joints.

Q: How can you tell if the Dura-torque axle is worn-out?
A: This is going to vary depending on who you talk to. A good rule of thumb is that the trailing torsion arm shouldn’t be angled upwards past horizontal when the trailer is fully loaded. A good second opinion verification is to put masking tape or sealant on the up stop. If the stop gets hit during routine travel, you will be able to tell, and your axle is a candidate for replacement.

Q: You had a 1965 Axle break on your Caravel. Do you recommend replacing the Dura-torque Axle precautionary?
A: If you have a pre-1967 axle with non-tapered inner bearings, I would recommend replacing the axle. More info in this restoration topic section. Also, any axle older than ~1978 is going to have the rubber rods pretty much worn out and should be evaluated for replacing anyway.

Q: If I have to repair/replace my Dura-torque axle, what are my options?
A: Henschen no longer repairs the older Dura-Torque axles, replacement is the only solution (Airstream Dealer). For experienced restorers, you can spec out a new torsion axle from Dexter or Axis Products, but you cannot order, say “an axle for a 1968 Safari”. More info in this restoration topic section.

Q: What about the older leaf spring axles?
A: Here you have many more choices. The axle components can be replaced or repaired using conventional auto/trailer parts, such as leaf springs, brake drums and brake parts, shocks, hubs, bearings and wheels. If an axle is too far gone (rusted or broke) a new Dexter or Hadco axle can be attached, or a new torsion axle can be retrofitted. See this Restoration Resource section for alternatives and the replacement we did on our Flying Cloud.

Q: The small 13 inch wheels on my Bambi are not split-rims, but the hub caps are no longer available, what can I do?
A: These wheels were actually low cost 4-lug Ford Mustang/Falcon wheels of the era. Replacements are usually made using Dexter wheels and moon hub caps just like the bigger trailers. As an option, you can usually go up to 14” wheels and use P185/75R14 tires and have just enough wheel-well clearance.

Q: What if can’t find parts for my small Bambi axle?
A: Replace the axle with one from Dexter. The old axles have a 10″ brake drum with 4 bolts. That pattern is no longer available. Use the 10″ drum with 5 bolts and get the new Dexter matching wheels and Moon hubcaps. The new axle actually fits the frame better than the old one. Installation only requires that new holes be drilled in the frame rail. The new install is actually cleaner than the old one.

Q: What is a Pipe Frame” Airstream?
A: “Pipe frame” Airstream trailers were built from 1947 to 1950, and usually have both or one end rounded with a single wide oval window on that rounded end. Travel trailers back then were built very light with few appliances and furnishings, so their frame could be relatively lightweight. The pipe frame was strengthened slightly in 1949 by adding another 3′ section of pipe inside the front most 3 feet near the hitch. But the frame soon became insufficient for the added weight of larger trailers with more stuff installed and loaded inside.
The “pipe frame” was also called a “Centerpole” by Airstream. The frame is like a fish skeleton: a longitudinal center rib with outriggers to both sides. The outriggers are not all that strong and cannot take too much weight being placed on them, other than above the wheels, which has some additional framing to attach the axle. You will typically see the appliances mounted in the center of trailers, usually above or just forward of the wheels, as that is best for weight distribution. If the small brackets that secure them to the centerpole become detached, you can (it has been done!) pull the centerpole right out the front of the trailer.
The first ladder frame Airstream with a “A” frame up front appeared in mid 1949. It was the 24′ “Unlimited”, soon to be renamed the “Cruiser.” By late 1950, all new Airstream trailers were built using the ladder frame.
The pipe frames are still OK if not rusted inside the tube, the outriggers have not become detached, if the trailer is kept light and not overloaded, and if you avoid using weight equalizing bars. To see what a Pipe-Frame looks like, check this ’48 Liner page.

Q: My leaf-spring axle has hydraulic brakes, can these still be used?
A: More than likely the axle was made by Hadco Engineering, a supplier to Airstream in the 1950’s. You can either maintain the brakes as hydraulic, which can be done with the use of a hydraulic actuator mounted somewhere on the trailer, or you can replace the axle. Both hydraulic and electrical components are still available from Hadco. The old Stromberg slave cylinder, parts and fittings are not made anymore, though. Hydraulic actuators are available from Carlisle.

Q: What is “rear end sag” or droop?
A: It is a chassis to shell separation on longer Airstreams, usually Ambassadors and Sovereigns prior to 1982. It was caused by the installation of gray (1973+) and black water tanks, along with the battery and weight of the bathroom fixtures in the back end of these long trailers. This combined weight, especially when the trailer was towed with the tanks left full, caused the shell to separate from the frame in the back from all the dynamic flexing, and ultimately bent the frame just aft of the wheel wells.
The fix is to install Airstream bulletin #29. It consists of two perforated plates, notched and pre-drilled to fit over the axles on both sides. You need to go through an Airstream dealer or authorized repair service to have the work done. If the shell is detached from the frame or the frame is bent, that will have to be corrected also. The bulletin is in the VAC Online Library if you wish to see if the mod has been done to your trailer. Ways to recognize the condition is to stand on the bumper and see if the frame moves and the shell doesn’t. Other sure signs are loose interior partitions and cabinets, or a 45 deg bulge in the side of the skin just aft of the wheels.

It can occur on other models of trailers, but is usually caused by the floor rotting in the rear of the trailer, and the C Channel that attached the upper and belly skins to the wood floor coming loose from the floor.

Q: What is the best way to replace the old worn electric brake parts? How often do I need to grease the wheel bearings?
A: Use a loaded backing plate, replacing the entire brake assy at each wheel. It consists of the magnet, brake shoes, springs, etc. mounted on the “backing plate”. There are several advantages to loaded backing plates. Often the cost of the individual components meets or exceed the cost of the complete unit. The process for replacement is: undo the 5 (or 4) bolts and two wires. Reinstall, connect wires, which do not need to be connected in any certain way, reinstall hub/drum and adjust. You’re done. You will now have all new springs, brake shoes and a current style magnet.
It also makes sense to repack the wheel bearings at the same time. A tip for removing the grease seal. Pry off the dust cap, cut and remove the cotter pin, remove the castle nut and washer, remove the outer bearing, replace the washer and nut, pull the hub/drum toward you allowing the washer to bear against the inner bearing, pulling with a sharp movement nearly always dislodges the inner bearing and seal with no damage to the bearing. Pack the bearings per this Champion article.
Another area that you need to be aware of are the different grease seals available. Many RV outlets have a simple single lip seal that will fit in Airstream axles. Airstream does not use nor do they recommend the use of single lip seals. Their recommendation is to use double lip seals only. They may be a little harder to find is a small price to pay for the added security.
The original P/N was a National 291148 felt seal and 292100 in the ‘60s Henschen axle. The 292100’s are available from OasisRV. The TCM 21325TB is a good substitute for the 291148. It is a double lip seal, also.

Q: What shocks should I use?
A: Except for later model tandem axles, conventional heavy-duty auto and light truck shocks are correct. Take a shock to an auto parts store so they can match the ends, stroke & length.
With the big body style change in 1969, Airstream changed to a horizontal mounted (trailing arm) shock absorber configuration. They can also be found on some later ’60’s dual axles.
What makes the new shock special is: “The shock used in the horizontal mount is a specialty shock built for Airstream by Gabriel. The difference is a bladder is used to hold the oil on the piston. The typical design of shocks would allow the oil to pool away from the piston leading to premature failure.” This shock is the one you need to get from Airstream dealers. While a conventional shock can be made to fit, you can see it may eventually fail.

Q: How do you carry a spare tire?
A: Either in the tow vehicle, under the bed if you have an external access compartment, or by one of these ideas:
http://www.airmarktools.net/services/airstream-parts/index.html
https://vintageairstream.com/photo-archives/1959-world-traveler-22/ (This was original from Airstream)
https://vintageairstream.com/1965-caravel-index/after-tour/#details This last one was made from C channel used to hang ceilings in commercial buildings, and was bought in 1965 (commercial made) from the Airstream dealer.

Q: Are two axles better than one?
A:Depends. Modern trailers usually always have 2 for a couple of reasons. Manufactures can use 2 lower cost, lighter weight axles, wheels & tires than the more expensive heavy duty single axles. 2 axles are more stable and the trailer tracks straighter. A tire blowout can result in a easier to manage condition, you can even remove a blown tire and proceed slowly on the remaining tire to a service station. The downside? You have 2 of everything. Twice the cost of maintenance – tires need to be replaced every 7-8 years, bearings repacked every 3 years. When fixing up an older trailer you may have to replace the axles – again twice the cost. Single axle trailers are more maneuverable and have more interior storage (less wheelwell size). As you can see, there is no clear answer.

Q: Are Airstreams still being made?
A: Yes, the company is alive and well in Jackson Center Ohio.

Q: Who are the people who are restoring Vintage Airstreams?
A: Airstream restoration/ownership is a mixed bag. Ranges from somebody keeping an old trailer patched together for economical living or traveling, to gutting an Airstream to the shell and using it to create something totally custom and different, to faithful restorations by people capturing the ambiance of a bygone era.

Q: How long has Airstream been in business? When did it start?
A: Since 1932. Only one other maker, Shasta, has been continuously in business longer. The first Airstreams were wood and canvas kits, the Model 2 and Silver Cloud being the two most noteworthy. The first all aluminum Airstream was the Clipper in 1936, and was made until aluminum was needed for WWII support in 1938. Many are still on the road today.

The first post war Airstream was the Liner made in June 1947. The first 2 dozen Liners carry plates that say “Airstream Built by Wallace M. Byam”, and in early 1948 moved production from the LA Airport in Van Nuys to its own factory at 1755 No. Main Street, LA, California. Airstream Trailers, Inc. was formally incorporated in California on November 1, 1948. When the corporation was formed, it bought Wally’s manufacturing company assets for stock and cash, and also acquired McFaul Brothers exclusive distributorship rights (stock & cash). The five initial directors of the new corporation were Wallace M. Byam, William W. Lampkin, Daniel W. Gage, Arthur R. Costello (who later became President), and Claude McFaul, whose “McFaul Bros Trailer Sales” was responsible for retailing Wally’s Airstream trailers at his sales lot. Basically, it “went public” at this time.

Q: What is the history of the AIRSTREAM factories?
A: After establishing the 1755 North Main Street factory in Los Angeles, Airstream expanded into east of the Mississippi by opening a plant in Jackson Center, Ohio in July 1952. Later that year, a second Southern California plant was opened up in Norwalk at 12804 E. Firestone Blvd. This later became the Santa Fe Springs plant in 1958 when borders of the two towns were realigned as Southern California grew. The North Main St. factory was closed in 1960. The Santa Fe Springs plant was closed to make way for the I-5 freeway expansion in 1968 at the end of the model year and after the 15949 Piuma Ave. Cerritos factory was opened in December 1967. The Cerritos factory was shuttered and all operations centered in Jackson Center, Ohio in 1979. It is because of these many factory overlaps you see different styles of the same model and within the same model year.

Q: It is rumored that Airstream quality suffered in the 1970’s when Beatrice Foods bought the company. Is this so?
A: Beatrice Foods, in the conglomerate climate of the late ’60’s, bought Airstream in July 1969. Much is said about the time Beatrice owned Airstream, both good and bad. The good include the illustrated service manuals and similar production documentation they introduced. They often get the blame for the wider, squarer body style change in 1969, but Beatrice did not take over the company until after the newly styled 1969’s was introduced.
Beatrice engineering did introduce the gray water tanks in 1973 and heavier interiors without changing the frame to support them, resulting in the famed “droop”. Beatrice design group introduced the vinyl covered cabinets, shag carpeting and dark wood grain interiors in 1972, but then that was the trend of the times. Beatrice management discontinued the smaller trailers in favor of the more profitable longer trailers aimed at retirees.
Beat up badly, Beatrice sold Airstream to a group of industry executives operating as Thor Industries in July 1979, who then closed the California factory, and still own Airstream to this day.

Q: I have seen a Silver Streak that looks exactly like an Airstream. Is it a kind of Airstream? What about those late 1940’s Curtis Wright Clippers? They look exactly like the 1930’s Airstream Clippers. Are they Airstreams?
A: No, and sort of. Curtis Wright, who moved to LA from Michigan before the war to start a manufacturing plant, hired Wally Byam. After the war in 1946, they started production of a new post-war travel trailer based on Wally’s pre-war Airstream Clipper & Sliver Cloud models at the Van Nuys Airport (LA Metropolitan Airport). After some months they went their separate ways, forming the Airstream Co. and Curtis Wright Travel Trailers. This appears to be why late ’30’s Airstreams and 1940’s Curtis Wright’s look very similar. In June 1949, three individuals, Kenny Neptune, Frank Pollito and “Pat” Patterson, who had met each other while working for Douglas Aircraft, acquired the trailer business from Mr. Wright and began producing trailers under the Silver Streak name in south El Monte California -which it continued into the 1970’s as a separate company.

Q: What about a Streamline trailer?
A: No relation again. In the 1950’s, Silver Streak partners Kenny Neptune and Frank Polido bought fellow partner “Pat” Patterson out, and Pat went off on his own to produce the “Streamline” trailer. One common Streamline model name was the “Duchess”, and they also made a very unique early motor-home. The Streamline Trailer Company went out of business in early 1974.

Q: Is an Argosy some kind of Airstream?
A: Yes, Argosy trailers were made by Airstream Company starting 1972 in Versailles, OH. near Jackson Center, and are usually recognized as “Painted Airstreams”. Many features were first tried out on the Argosy models, and then incorporated into the more traditional Airstreams if they were a success. A good example is the large front wrap windows.
These painted trailers were able to utilize steel end caps and aluminum panels that were damaged or blemished.
Argosy created a series of diminutive trailers in the ’70’s called the “Minuet”. There was the 6.0 Metre (20′), the 6.7 Metre (22′), and a 7.4 Metre (24′) Minuet.
The first Airstream Motorhomes were Argosy’s made in the mid ’70’s. Airstream didn’t brand its own motorhome until 1979.

Q: Did Airstream ever make a truck camper?
A: No, only Avion ever made a cab over camper, back in the early 1960’s, and is sometimes confused with having been made by Airstream.

Q: How have Airstreams changed over the years?
A: The late 1940’s were lightweight trailers utilizing a single pipe-frame support down the center of the undercarriage, which was also the tongue hitch. The body shape followed the deco looking aerodynamic style of the ’30’s & ’40’s, pointed ends front and back with a single large oval window in the ends. There was one taillight in the back – smack in the center as allowed on trailers back then. Interior layouts were almost always custom built to the buyers taste, and usually lacked bathrooms as we now them now. There were no hook-ups then, and the tank, fixture and pump technology just wasn’t there yet. Ice Boxes were standard, as were wobble type hand-operated water pumps. Electrical system consisted of a few 120v outlets. The stoves were the Coleman portable stove of the era, just attached to the cabinets. Furnishings were of high quality galvanized steel, solid wood and wood veneers made by furniture companies. All the appliances were centered over the axle for support. Interior paint was either a pastel “tender green” or “desert sand”. Windows were lever operated, and the door included the unique for time “door within a door” screen door.

The early 1950’s brought the wider square ladder-frame and A-shaped tongue hitch riding on leaf spring axles. The body shape became little more squarish thanks to flat front & rear windows. Skin panel end segments were 13 pie shaped wedges riveted together to form the curve. Brakes were electric, operated by a lever in the tow vehicle. Later in the decade hydraulic brakes were offered that tapped into the vehicle brake system, eliminating the need for the hand lever on the steering column. Cranks replaced notched levers in 1955, and gas refrigerators arrived about the same time. Interior finish became the Zolatone textured finish until the 1970’s. The color mix changed over the years to reflect the “in” colors of the time. Interior cabinetry became more mass produced wood veneers, first with squeeze-type latches, later with phenolic cam type. Countertops and bath surfaces were painted tempered hardboard. The electrical system was all 120 volt with an occasional 12 volt light operated by the tow vehicle battery. Primary illumination was from a LP gas fired lamp. Apartment style ranges were introduced. Water systems consisted of galvanized water tanks that were pressurized by a hand pump, gas station air, or later, an onboard Grover or Coleman air-compressor. Copper and then bronze waste tanks started appearing, making the trailer more self-contained. Showers were often just galvanized steel or painted hardboard, usually with the toilet in the middle (wet lav). In 1958, Airstream introduced 3 option levels for all its trailers: “Standard” – 120 volt AC appliances; ”Land Yacht” – self contained + 12v battery; ”International” – self-contained + upgraded. Better forming techniques allowed the change from 13 panels to 7 compound curve panels about 1958. The Princess brand of RV stove replaced the larger apartment ranges and Bowen gas fired hot water heaters replacing the 120v under cabinet units. The decade ended in 1959 with the introduction of a new style extruded aluminum window.

The 1960’s brought about a new style axle in 1961, the rubber cored “Dura-torque”. Skin panels changed once again in 1964 with 5 broader panel segments. The early ’60’s also saw the introduction of the 12volt electrical system, powered from either an onboard battery or 110v external power. This introduced the 12 volt Marine type light fixture, the 12v water pump and plastic water tanks, and the Uni-Volt converter. Cabinets finish options changed from lacquered birch to oiled wood (mahogany & walnut) and lacquered oak, the countertops to Formica laminate, and interior endcaps were made of one piece fiberglass. Brakes changed back to electric. The decade ended with a big body style change in 1969, with each model growing in length by one foots and getting wider by 4 inches in a squared off shape.

The 1970’s trailers mirrored the times. In addition to the bigger, wider form introduced in 1969, the trailers followed the style of the era again, this time with dark vinyl wood grained cabinets, shag carpeting, plastic tambour doors and avocado green appliances and countertops. Vista-View windows made their debut, as did solid state “Airstream Control Centers” in the front overhead. This was the era of the Beatrice Foods owning the Airstream company. Microwaves appeared, as did vinyl covered walls in place of the Zolatone. The shorter Caravel was dropped and the loaded Excella 500 was introduced as Airstream aimed its marketing at the affluent retirees. The seventies were stable in that the model offerings and appearance were the same from year to year, offering the same look and options.

Q: Where can I learn more about vintage Airstreams and restoring them?
A:

1. Peruse this website from front to back, especially the pages in the Restoration Resource section.
2. Read or print the old catalogs and Airstream information found in the VAC Online Library.
3. Subscribe to the free e-mail Vintage Airstream discussion list. Join the AirstreamForums.com discussion site.
4. Check out what others have done on the Related Links page.
5. Check out the books available in the Recommended Reading section.
6. Attend a rally and ask questions and check out the vintage trailers. If you don’t have an Airstream, attend the weekend Open House that occurs at each vintage rally.
7. Subscribe to the the full-color Airstream magazine “Airstream Life”.

Q: What about RV’ing and RV repair in general?
A: Get copies of:

“The RV Handbook”, a very informative book on general RV systems management and “how things work” by Bill Estes.
“RV Maintenance and Repair” by Bob Livingston
“Managing 12 Volts” by Harold Barre
Check out phred Tinseth’s RV “poop sheets”

Q: How can I find my nearest Airstream dealer?
A: Check out the Thor Airstream website.

Q: Is it true that an Airstream is sometimes chosen as a permanent home by those with severe allergies?
A: To some degree. The Airstream is modified by removing all the components, inner skin and floor leaving only the shell and frame, and then rebuilt with allergen-free materials. A stock Airstream is no different from any other form of trailer or dwelling.

Q: It seems that the Ohio factory in the 1950’s and early 1960’s produced a myriad of different models and layout designs compared to California. Why is that?
A: The California plant was subject to the strict California Division of Housing mobile home regulations and could not vary their standard model floor plans during these years. California could upgrade the furnishings and systems to International trim but could not vary the approved CDH layouts.

Q: Some options and features that are on similar year trailers in the archive section are not on my trailer. Why is that?
A: Contrary to what a lot of people assume, Airstream never magically on September, the beginning of the new model year, threw out the leftover older style parts, and started in with the new systems or features. Plus they had to have in service testing and prototype installs too. Instead they worked them in across models and option packages over time. as the old parts were used up. Since California and Ohio factories had their own parts inventory, they never really coincided east to west either. Messes with our concepts of putting things into nice neat and tidy packages and classifications, but sure does explain a lot of the variability what you will see.

This is our most requested feature – photos of vintage Airstreams listed by year and length. Without any Airstream history books, or any official Airstream guides, this listing of models and large collection of photos was developed over a period of years, and is the only way many people get to see what many of the models look like, how they changed over the years, and find comparison images for that missing part or feature on their model. This listing is the most complete an accurate one available anywhere at this time.

Official Airstream records are nonexistent (thrown out) and production and models was inconsistent, especially between the multiple California and Ohio factories. I have had the fortunate assistance from individuals who have supplied some early production run information and industry records. If you have any additional material or information that would help, please contact us with any insight you might have. The sole purpose of this listing is for education. Prior to standardization in 1965, model names and serial number format was loose & casual. Not all trailers were made at all factories, some were made for only a year, and rarely did the model name appear on the trailer until the ’60’s. Model names were also recycled in later years. The Caravanner of the ’50s had little in common with the 70’s version. Sub-Model names such as the GlobeTrotter and Trade Wind of the late ’40’s Liner series became real model names later in the ’50’s. Airstream experimented with layouts & built custom trailers to further confuse the issue. Many model names were just marketing ploys, and never existed on a nameplate. The 1950’s 18 footers and 22 footers were notorious for this. It is best to think in terms of year and length. I have captured most of these nuances, but am always open to learning more.

The ability to complete this matrix comes from you. If you have photos of your trailer that you can send, please do so along with the year, serial number, length and any model information. Both interior and exterior shots are ideal. If you don’t have a digital camera, but have prints, please e-mail us for directions where to send them. We’ll scan them and return them back.

Trailer lengths can be confusing. Even though they are measured “bumper to ball”, they rarely came out even feet – they always landed some where in the middle at about 8″. Years were just as confusing as many were registered as the year they were sold instead of the year made – and Motor Vehicle Dept’s made many mistakes, too. Many times trailers are registered after sitting unused, and are mis-identified. Airstream usually started their model year in September of the prior year, just like automakers. Best bet is to use the serial number for accuracy . Send your serial number and I’ll decode it. There is no easy way to list decoding procedures, as it varied from year to year and plant to plant. My notes are now 30 pages long.